Working Snag Boat in the Dismal Swamp Canal
Narrow Channel
Mistletoe in Sweet Gum Trees
Free Docks at Elizabeth City, NC
Blimp Factory in Elizabeth City, One of the largest wooden structures in the world.5/08/09 to 5/14/09 We traveled for 7 days in a row, reaching Wrightsville Beach, NC, the first night, where we docked at a marina right along the ICW. On almost every mile marker post we saw nesting ospreys. The second day of travel, we had to wait for two different swing bridges to open, each with a clearance of 12 feet (our boat needs 18 feet to clear, because of the antennas). About noon Lois called a marina in Morehead City, NC, to reserve a slip for the night. The dockmaster said, "You don’t want to stay here for the night. This wind will bounce you against the dock all night long. Call Morehead City Yacht Basin, which is more protected." We thanked him and took his advice, although the wind was still substantial. Many of the slips at the Morehead City Yacht Basin were occupied by big sport fishing boats, but there were several cruisers traveling together who had stopped for the night on their way to Ocracoke. They were all out on the dock about six PM having hors d’ouevres and invited us to join them. One couple was starting their Loop adventure and we talked to them for a while.
May 10 was a beautiful traveling day; the wind didn’t increase until afternoon On Adams Creek we saw a beautiful wooden yacht that seemed familiar; the name on the transom was Sophie. She was in Clearwater Beach when we last saw her. Reputedly owned by a well-known Fox News reporter, she is kept in mint condition. When we mentioned her to the dockmaster at Belhaven, NC, where we stopped for the night, he recognized her immediately, and said she would be spending some time at the marina there.
Monday, May 11, we left Belhaven early and continued on the Pungo River to a land cut (canal) about 20 miles long that led us to the Alligator River. Although the day was overcast and breezy, it was not until we came out into the Alligator River that things started to get interesting. At first, the waves were 1-2 feet and we were headed north directly into them, which is doable. Then the river got wider and the waves increased to 4-6 feet. When we went through the Alligator River swing bridge and turned west toward a marina, the waves hit us broadside for the ½ mile or so to the marina, repeatedly tilting us back and forth. Finally we reached the breakwater for the marina, where numerous other boats had also taken refuge. Fortunately, experienced dockhands were there to secure us to the dock. The winds continued to blow until dark. For the first time, Bob used fender boards to help cushion us from the dock.. On the plus side, we bought diesel fuel for $1.85/gal., the best price since Clearwater, FL, in December.
Tuesday, May 12 This was the day for crossing the dreaded Albemarle Sound. In talking with other cruisers last evening, we agreed that an early start was best, so at 6 AM, several boats set off. The weather had to be sunny with little wind for a good passage. It went very well. As we approached the mouth of the Pasquotank River, we could see the Coast Guard Air Station and the enormous building which houses a blimp factory. Many years ago the same building was where they built dirigibles. We reached Elizabeth City by 10 AM., pulled in to the free city dock, and were assisted by volunteer "greeters". When we returned to the boat after walking around town and visiting the Museum of the Albemarle, other boats were arriving and by late afternoon all 14 slips were filled. In the afternoon, we went to the grocery store and ran into Bill and Joy from the Marilyn J, whom we last met a year ago in New Jersey, where they guided us through the harbor at Ocean City and the maze of lift bridges in Ventnor City.
May 13 and 14 We waited until 7:30 for the Elizabeth City lift bridge to open, then traveled 18 miles on the twisty Pasquotank River to the South Mills lock, which raised us 8 ft. to the level of the Dismal Swamp Canal. The canal has a long history, dating back to George Washington’s time, when he and some partners got the idea to drain the swamp and harvest the timber. They built part of the canal and then Washington sold his interest to someone else. Eventually a lumber company bought the swamp, harvested the rest of the virgin timber, and donated the land to create a national wildlife refuge. The care of the canal is now supervised by the Army Corps of Engineers. It is very narrow, the water is tea-colored, depths rarely exceed 8 feet, and it is used mainly by recreational boaters. Along each side is a narrow strip of lush green trees and bushes which tends to make you think that civilization is far away (it’s not!). The honeysuckle was in bloom and its scent filled the air. Hanging in the trees we saw dark green mistletoe twined around itself to make big balls. Although we heard songbirds, we didn’t see them and there were just a few wading water birds (probably no fish to attract them). Overnight we stayed at the dock at the North Carolina State Visitors Center, near the border with Virginia. The next day was an early start in order to be at the 8:30 opening of the Deep Creek lock, 17 miles away. There were 3 other boats at that location, who had used a dock nearby overnight. This lock, the final one for us, was fun. There was a tiny white house, used for the lockmaster’s office, with a very attractive flower bed in the front. When all the boats were tied to the side of the lock, Robert the lockmaster picked up a conch shell, one of several on the edge of the flower bed, and blew through it, playing a little tune. ( Bob bought himself a conch shell when we were in the Keys, but can only play one note, no variations. This gives him something to aspire to.)
We continued on the Elizabeth River to Portsmouth and Norfolk,VA, across Hampton Roads (junction of the Chesapeake Bay, Elizabeth River, James River, and Nansemond River) to the city of Hampton, VA. It was a relief to get there, as Hampton Roads was quite choppy. At the Hampton Public Piers, we tied up next to Wanderin’ L & M, whom we hadn’t seen since Fort Pierce, FL. In the evening, all of us went out for Italian meal.
May 10 was a beautiful traveling day; the wind didn’t increase until afternoon On Adams Creek we saw a beautiful wooden yacht that seemed familiar; the name on the transom was Sophie. She was in Clearwater Beach when we last saw her. Reputedly owned by a well-known Fox News reporter, she is kept in mint condition. When we mentioned her to the dockmaster at Belhaven, NC, where we stopped for the night, he recognized her immediately, and said she would be spending some time at the marina there.
Monday, May 11, we left Belhaven early and continued on the Pungo River to a land cut (canal) about 20 miles long that led us to the Alligator River. Although the day was overcast and breezy, it was not until we came out into the Alligator River that things started to get interesting. At first, the waves were 1-2 feet and we were headed north directly into them, which is doable. Then the river got wider and the waves increased to 4-6 feet. When we went through the Alligator River swing bridge and turned west toward a marina, the waves hit us broadside for the ½ mile or so to the marina, repeatedly tilting us back and forth. Finally we reached the breakwater for the marina, where numerous other boats had also taken refuge. Fortunately, experienced dockhands were there to secure us to the dock. The winds continued to blow until dark. For the first time, Bob used fender boards to help cushion us from the dock.. On the plus side, we bought diesel fuel for $1.85/gal., the best price since Clearwater, FL, in December.
Tuesday, May 12 This was the day for crossing the dreaded Albemarle Sound. In talking with other cruisers last evening, we agreed that an early start was best, so at 6 AM, several boats set off. The weather had to be sunny with little wind for a good passage. It went very well. As we approached the mouth of the Pasquotank River, we could see the Coast Guard Air Station and the enormous building which houses a blimp factory. Many years ago the same building was where they built dirigibles. We reached Elizabeth City by 10 AM., pulled in to the free city dock, and were assisted by volunteer "greeters". When we returned to the boat after walking around town and visiting the Museum of the Albemarle, other boats were arriving and by late afternoon all 14 slips were filled. In the afternoon, we went to the grocery store and ran into Bill and Joy from the Marilyn J, whom we last met a year ago in New Jersey, where they guided us through the harbor at Ocean City and the maze of lift bridges in Ventnor City.
May 13 and 14 We waited until 7:30 for the Elizabeth City lift bridge to open, then traveled 18 miles on the twisty Pasquotank River to the South Mills lock, which raised us 8 ft. to the level of the Dismal Swamp Canal. The canal has a long history, dating back to George Washington’s time, when he and some partners got the idea to drain the swamp and harvest the timber. They built part of the canal and then Washington sold his interest to someone else. Eventually a lumber company bought the swamp, harvested the rest of the virgin timber, and donated the land to create a national wildlife refuge. The care of the canal is now supervised by the Army Corps of Engineers. It is very narrow, the water is tea-colored, depths rarely exceed 8 feet, and it is used mainly by recreational boaters. Along each side is a narrow strip of lush green trees and bushes which tends to make you think that civilization is far away (it’s not!). The honeysuckle was in bloom and its scent filled the air. Hanging in the trees we saw dark green mistletoe twined around itself to make big balls. Although we heard songbirds, we didn’t see them and there were just a few wading water birds (probably no fish to attract them). Overnight we stayed at the dock at the North Carolina State Visitors Center, near the border with Virginia. The next day was an early start in order to be at the 8:30 opening of the Deep Creek lock, 17 miles away. There were 3 other boats at that location, who had used a dock nearby overnight. This lock, the final one for us, was fun. There was a tiny white house, used for the lockmaster’s office, with a very attractive flower bed in the front. When all the boats were tied to the side of the lock, Robert the lockmaster picked up a conch shell, one of several on the edge of the flower bed, and blew through it, playing a little tune. ( Bob bought himself a conch shell when we were in the Keys, but can only play one note, no variations. This gives him something to aspire to.)
We continued on the Elizabeth River to Portsmouth and Norfolk,VA, across Hampton Roads (junction of the Chesapeake Bay, Elizabeth River, James River, and Nansemond River) to the city of Hampton, VA. It was a relief to get there, as Hampton Roads was quite choppy. At the Hampton Public Piers, we tied up next to Wanderin’ L & M, whom we hadn’t seen since Fort Pierce, FL. In the evening, all of us went out for Italian meal.
1 comment:
There is light at the end of the tunnel!!! Yippee, homeward bound! I miss you Grandma and Grandpa! Love, Katie
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